A Very Watery Travel Story

One night a few years ago I was reminiscing with myself about trips I have taken.  If you live alone you know how easy it is to reminisce with yourself. You've probably done that too. I considerate it the  best alternative to talking to a cat because there are  no litter boxes involved.

I remembered reading about people who had gone  on canal trips in Europe with friends back in the days when I was just dreaming of being a world traveler. Did folks still go on slow, leisurely trips on European canals?  I investigated. They sure did. Poking around the internet I found a canal cruise in France that looked perfect.  I called a friend and she was as excited as I was after I shared my information. She agreed to join me. 

I made reservations.  The canal  trips always take place from Sunday to the following Saturday.  We decided we would spend extra days in Paris before and after the trip because why not? We had to fly to Paris anyway. 

 I've stayed in hotels in Paris, dorms in Paris and apartments in Paris.  This time we were going to stay in a hospital.  I do  not know where I heard about this unusual hotel but it was inexpensive and the location was unbeatable.

A few months later my friend, Pat, and I flew into Paris and took the Metro from the airport.  We thought we were pretty clever. The Metro was cheap and Notre Dame was our  stop.  We followed the signs and got on the train.  Sure enough, we got off at Notre Dame.  What could be easier? 

Unfortunately, we hadn't taken into account that the subway was underground and we had to climb many stairs with our luggage to get to the street.    With many pauses for rest we climbed and climbed and finally stood beside the Seine River and gazed at the cathedral in awe.  This was before the fire so it still looked good.   However, as we stood there we could not figure out which of the many buildings on the streets surrounding the cathedral was actually a  hospital.   

We tried to be intuitive and walked a block which had just one building. I think we finally spotted a large door that could be an ambulance entrance.  Soon there was a gate.We walked in and found a lovely courtyard.  It was the hospital!  Despite being given directions we took the wrong elevator and ended up (I think) in the ward for mental patients. It was locked, of course, and we were quickly ushered out and redirected.   We were beginning to worry about  what we had gotten ourselves into.

We finally found the hotel part of the place. We were assigned to a room.  It was plain and had a window high up on the wall. If we stood on the bed we could see the Cathedral right outside our window.   It was a great place to stay.  We got croissants plus tea or coffee every morning.  The location was fantastic because Notre Dame is the center of Paris.  Unfortunately the Hospital Hotel-Dieu de Paris no longer rents out rooms to travelers.  As soon as I discover something great, it disappears.  

However, if you are ever at Notre Dame and you feel weary, look for a long building with a blue gate near the center.  If you open the gate  gently you will  enter the large garden which leads to the elevators of Hotel-Dieu de Paris.  You can relax there on a bench and enjoy the ambiance.

We spent several days on walking tours and wandering the streets.  We got thousands of steps in and slept well each night. Of course, we also shopped.  On a previous trip we had discovered a small chain of shops that sells well constructed clothes at very reasonable prices.  We visited several of them and scored.

Finally it was Saturday so we made the trek to meet a van which would take us to our watery rendezvous.  We met our fellow  travelers at some hotel away from the center of the city.  I like to imagine that we were flown there by creatures with gossamer wings.  Since this is my story that is what I will write.  But in real life we probably took a cab.

Canal boats are not very big and so there wasn't a large group.  We were taken in a van to a  town that had a convenient canal.  Aboard the boat Pat and and I each had a single cabin.  The lounge area had room for everyone and there was also seating on deck in good weather.   We were introduced  all around and served dinner.  Every lunch and dinner on this trip began with a first course accompanied by a chilled white wine. The main course always had a red wine.  Before we were served the chef would come out and explain what we were eating and the reasons why certain wines were chosen.  It could be very educational if you wanted to pay attention. 

However, at dinner that evening we received bad news.  All canal barges were forbidden to use the canals by the French government.  Because of heavy rains the canals were too high for the barges to go under many of the bridges. That seemed sensible but what about us and our trip?

We were water bound!  Our hosts quickly assured us that we would use the boat as our hotel and stay right where we were.  However, they would transport us to every stop they had planned. We were disappointed but what can you do?  The setting where we were now going to be permanently anchored was lovely. 

The good part of this was that they were doing everything they could to make us happy.  They asked what folks preferred to drink besides the wine for meals.  Any request within reason was fulfilled. Some people ordered the very best scotch and whiskey.  There was nothing they wouldn't do for us in order to keep us there and happy.

Barges travel very slowly.  They often carry bicycles that passengers can ride to the next stop and the bicycle riders  arrive long before the barge does.  We were whisked from town to town in a van and actually had more time to explore what each village had to offer. Most of our fellow  passengers were congenial and fun to be with.  Of course, there is always that one couple that everyone talks about. Either they are always late, or they are obnoxious, or super fussy.  This trip had an entitled pair.  They requested the most expensive scotch, they had the best life in North Carolina or some other southern state, they talked constantly about their wealthy friends and their lives which were better than anyone else. These kind of people are invaluable in uniting the rest of the travelers.  We could all bond by sitting  around and complaining about them.

Our week went by too quickly and it became time to leave.  We had magnificent meals not only on the barge but also at some restaurants.  I love the wine in France.  Although we drank much at lunch and dinner none of us ever felt any effects from so much imbibing.  I think that is because in France they do not add so many chemicals to the wine,  We were getting more grapes and fewer additives. We saw charming villages and visited little museums that I can't remember and also found outdoor markets with unusual goods.

After our non-water journey we returned to Paris for a few more nights. We kind of picked up where we left off before the barge trip (or non-trip!).  While bathing in the tub at our hotel my friend, Pat, slipped and hurt her shoulder.  This happened the day before our flight.  Our new goal was to get her home where she could see her own doctor .

The hotel had arranged for a cab to the airport.  When you take a cab to O'Hare or Midway they drop you off at your airline.  Not so in Paris.  We asked but suddenly English was not understood and we were dropped at probably the farthest stop possible from our airline.  I pulled my suitcase plus Pat's because it aggravated her shoulder.    In situations like this I say a mantra to myself.  "This too will end some day soon.  Just keep putting one foot in front of the other." On we trudged trying not to moan too loudly.

Then, suddenly, a tall French man who strangely resembled Burt Lancaster was beside us grabbing the two suitcases I was doggedly dragging.  At first I was concerned he was trying to steal them.  But my wiser self realized that no one would steal  two bags of dirty clothes so boldly.  He just smiled at us and gallantly relinquished our bags when we reached our destination.  We responded with many "Merci beau coups" and he answered "Avec plaisir" and walked briskly away.   Magic!

The flight was uneventful and Pat's shoulder was okay when she saw the doctor.   Plus I only dreamed of the handsome French man who helped  me with the bags just as I dreamed earlier about flying on gossamer wings.  I don't even know what gossamer wings are. But it's my story so I can add whatever I want.  I promise that all of the rest is the absolute truth.

 Would I do this trip again?  You bet, even if the water is  too high  and I might end up in a  van instead of a barge. Barges are really wonderful to sleep in even if you don't go anywhere.    

Ed. For more interesting info about Hospital Dieu <Click Here>